Happy Holidays

I have never met or to my knowledge seen the people that live directly above me, but I think of them often. I have endearingly termed them "les elephants. " I am truly puzzled by what they do up there that could possibly make so much noise. I suspect bowling.
Today, for the first time I heard their voices. They were singing Christmas carols. At first I thought they were just playing music, but I recognized live harmony and piano. They were pretty good. My heart softened toward the elephants. Maybe we could be friends. I still wish they didn't get up so early.

So yes the Christmas season is upon us, all over the western world and certainly not excluding Nice. The city is beautifully decorated and lit up. It may still be in the 60's here (true story, and I am not complaining) but there is lovely fake snow on many christmas trees set up around the city. There is even a Christmas market and skating rink set up in our main plaza. And Christmas music was playing in the supermarket today. I love it. I love Christmas. I know in the states you could drive around and see some magnificent displays in peoples' yards and all their lights and decorations. Well, no one around here really has a yard, but everyday I think I notice a new balcony with lights on it. And the city streets themselves are fantastic. I found a church that has been doing a Christmas choir, so I've been singing with them and we have a couple concerts this weekend. Nothing like Christmas in Kernersville, NC singing with Mrs. Earnhardt's choir, but still great fun. Did I mention I love Christmas?
I also celebrated a lovely thanksgiving here. No, they definitely don't celebrate thanksgiving in France. But there are enough americans around here and we can't seem to give it up. So I actually was able to feast 3 different times. But that third time I was just eating desserts. :) Tasty ones though.
I have now been in France for over 2 months, making this my longest consecutive time abroad. Even in the past when I have spent the majority of my summer traveling, I never crossed that mark. So, in all of my other experiences, this would be the time where I would have gotten shipped back home and would have to get back to my "real" life. I'm glad that isn't happening this time. This whole year seems to be going really quickly, but I'm excited to see what 3 months, 4 months, etc feels like. :)


Here are a few pics of Place Massena all set up for Christmas.

My life is cool

I sometimes have these moments where ever so briefly I seem to step out of my body and my life, and see myself from somewhere usually just to my right or left as an observer.
I had one such experience this evening when I was walking with 2 other assistants along the port and the sea near sunset. A spaniard, a columbian, and an american, enjoying the french riviera and chatting in French, with occasional interjections in Spanish and English. Not so crazy.
Except that I'm the american in the picture. Wait, I speak French? And Spanish? Wait, I'm carrying on a conversation with people that it would actually not be possible for me to be friends with if I couldn't do this. When did this happen? This is my life? Um, I'm on the french riviera?
My life is cool.
It is often far easier for me to see the things I can't do, the things I've failed at or royally screwed up in the past. Or even the things I still fail at from day to day. To see the things I haven't accomplished and all the ways I seem to fall short in the eyes of myself and others.
But sometimes I have to acknowledge that my life has taken turns that a younger version of myself probably wouldn't have dreamed possible. Already, at 23, I feel like I've lived multiple lives. And they don't always seem connected. But I know that somehow all of those prior lives and experiences have led to this one rather surprising and extraordinary moment that I am witnessing right now.


And then the moment passes. I am myself once again and nothing more. Back inside the present, where nothing seems quite so extraordinary. Life is always more glamorous through someone else's eyes, even if it is those of your own alter-ego.

Vacances deToussaint in a Nutshell

I had a great week and half.
I'll sum up. Sunday before last, John and Kristen arrived from Le Havre. We spent two days here with unfortunate amounts of rain. But we enjoyed some regional specialties and ate some very nice French meals, deciding that the best way to experience France when it is raining so hard you can't really see anything, is to eat!
We moved on to Marseilles, where we were again met by clouds, but no real downpours this time. We were able to take a boat out to visit the famous Chateau d'if, which is the island where Edmond Dantes is imprisoned for 20+ years in the novel The Count of Monte Cristo. We weren't able to get off and visit the island because of the rough waters caused by the almost storms. We were able to sit on the front of the boat though and get properly soaked by a big wave. (Well John and Kristen got soaked. I ducked behind them.) We also ate some Boullabaise, the famed fish soup of the region. Generally positive impressions of Marseilles.
From there we moved on to Toulouse to visit and stay with our dear friend Julian, who had stayed with John for a few months last year. This turned out to be an excellent choice of a way to spend a vacation, because we stayed with Julian's family, meaning with his very french parents who cooked for us and doted on us for 4 days. I imagine I have now eaten the best that I will eat in my entire stay here. It was lovely. We got so much good French practice, learned some fun expressions and cultural insights, and got to know some really wonderful people. We obviously all like our independence, but having the parent types around is certainly nice sometimes. It was also great to spend time with Julian and meet some of his friends as well. What a fun few days!
From Toulouse, John and Kristen made their several hour trip back to Le Havre with a day to spare before classes started again on Thursday. (today) I, determined apparently not to miss a day of opportunity, decided to spend a night in Avignon before returning all the way to Nice. I probably should have just gone home, but I do not regret my decision. Avignon is the city where the popes lived for a while during the...oh shoot 14th, 15th century? Blast, you think I would have caught that stat while I was there. Anyway, the city is beautiful! It is still fortified by the ancient city wall. The palais des papes (popes palace) is still intact, although it has lost some of its original artwork and ceilings. Lost in fires and such. So much ancient history in that place. And set in the beautiful Rhone valley with the river running right beside the city. It was a nice stay. Although, kind of a bummer to be by myself after spending the week in constant company.
And finalement, last night I arrived safely in Nice after finally breaking through the heavy traffic caused by the G20. (meeting of the French president and other important heads of states)

The whole trip was actually cooler than I've described it here. But all the details would take far too long to narrate. So in short, France is so cool and I had a great time. :)

not a proper blog post

Not a proper blog post. But it is Toussaint here and I have visitors from Le Havre that have come to enjoy to beauty of the Riviera. It has unfortunately been raining here for 2 days. Tomorrow we are leaving Nice to do some more traveling in the south. Yay vacations in France!

A few pictures

These are kind of random, but just a few of the things I've seen and actually thought to take a picture of.


Went to Antibes, a neighboring town. Pretty rich area. So this is the yacht yard. There is an old fort in the background.


This is also in Antibes. The picture doesn't do justice. That coast there is actually Nice and some stuff in between. Behind it are the hills and pre-alpes that we can't really see from Nice because we are too close to them.

Socca is a local specialty. This is how they cook it. It is basically a giant tortilla made with chickpeas.
Here we have an old roman road. There are some ruins of an arena or town or something nearby. This is just up the hill from where I live.

The beach at sunset. Rocky, but still very pretty. I mean it is the Mediterranean. :)

Taken from the hill above where I live. Here you can see most of the city, the sea, and that hill in front of the sea is the the site where the ancient castle of Nice once stood. The big gray building near the center of this picture is actually the school where I work.

This is a sculpture garden in front of the library. I originally wondered why something that clearly to me says "blockhead" should represent an area of information, learning, and education. But a statue inside the library makes me believe the big square is meant to represent a book. So a suppose "bookhead" could be interpreted more positively.

History lessons

Today was a good day

I started out early by observing some classes at the school. The most interesting was one of the literature classes (supposedly this should be my class with the students at the highest level of English.) They are reading a book about a period of political terror in Nigeria. I know nothing of this history but I'm going to learn because I will be reading the book too. One of the other professors at the school is actually from Benin. (which borders Nigeria) He came into the class today to discuss Nigeria, this period of recent history (he was there) and share some cultural insights. It was fascinating. And also terrible to hear. When I got home this evening I told my Togolese (another country in west africa, bordering the other side of Benin. For those geographically challenged) roommate about the book and the class. He also has family and cousins that were in the country during this time and assured me that the things I heard the teacher talk about today "Ce n'est pas fiction. C'est vrai."
I know I'm supposed to be teaching, but truthfully, I would learn a lot if I could attend the English classes instead. Sure, my English is a bit advanced, but they learn english by studying history and culture, sometimes my own culture! And my knowledge of these things is far from perfect, and it is very interesting to hear your own culture and language taught in another country. But of course Americans are not the only people in the world who speak English. In my observations this week I've learned a little bit about immigration to America/the American dream, the relationship between Ireland and Australia, apartheid in South Africa, politics in Nigeria, the civil rights movement, more recent protests in New York, studies on technology and on the 9/11 generation. MY generation. Fascinating I tell you. (Almost makes me want to go school and study the stuff...oh wait, not gonna happen!)

After classes I went walking and errand running. I successfully ( I think) applied for housing aid. I remember being afraid or uncomfortable doing things like that in the states. You know, paperwork, applying for things, offices, talking to people. Eh. Seriously, a part of adulthood I barely accepted in English. But I did it today in the French world. I still won't make phone calls though. :) I would rather walk around the whole city and find the right person to talk to than make a phone call in French.
Also on my day out today I had a fairly lengthy conversation with a stranger who saw me with a map and wanted to know if he could help me. I wasn't really lost or looking for anything, (I hadn't yet decided which direction I wanted to go) but we talked for a good while about things to see here and in the surrounding areas. Also good food to try and a bit of a french history lesson. He informed me that the high school I work at is named after a famous french poet and if I'm going to work there I had best do some reading. :) I told him I would. I checked a book of poetry out of the library this evening and I hope he knows that I've kept my word.

I am such a silly chicken. I'm mostly just shy about my french and looking stupid and things like that. These silly fears sometimes lead me to procrastinate a bit on usually very simple procedures. Today's simple procedure: find a doctor.
No, I'm not sick. But I have to have a doctor that agrees to be my doctor in case I do get sick so that I can be part of the social security in France, which I am obligated to be a part of. I will be happy when my life here does not involve so much paperwork.
So, I spent the morning lazily getting myself ready to go on this new endeavor. Doctor finding endeavor. I got this. I went to the nearest pharmacy. Explained my situation. I don't know why I always have it in my head that the person I talk to is going to immediately tell me in fast and confusing french that everything I am doing is wrong and that I must do this whole host of other things first. This has never actually happened. And it didn't today either. Lady at the pharmacy kindly pointed me to the nearest doctor, and just to be sure I understood she drew me a map and took me outside and pointed me down the street. I only had to travel maybe 100 yards, but she wanted to be sure. Went to the doctor's office. I had waited so long to get going that it was now lunch time and the secretary was out. Lunch time here is sooo much better than lunch time in the States. It is like 2 hours long. So I talked to a very sweet nurse who told me when someone would be available and I returned at that time. The secretary took my paper, did some stamping and writing, I signed and then we were done. Never even had to see a doctor. Then she asked me if I would be offering any English courses on the side! My first clients for a second job if I decide to do that! Yes!
And I procrastinated all day on doing that? This 10 minute procedure that took me maybe a 10th of a mile from home where everyone was really nice to me? Yep.

I go for a day of observation at my school tomorrow. This week has been a couple of training/information days and just meeting a few teachers at my school. I am supposed to start teaching on Monday but I suspect I may observe for a few more days. Fine by me. We will see what happens.

First week in Nice

Ok. Quick updates then. I keep trying to sike myself up for a decent, well thought out, and well written entry and then somehow I am always too tired to deliver it. I don't have an excuse though. I haven't really been that busy.

I have been in Nice since Tuesday. I arrived by train. My train drove right past the Mediterranean sea for several miles and it was beautiful. I was nervous to meet my landlord. Since I had stayed with Melinda, an American, in Paris I had still been speaking a lot of English. Even though she introduced me to several of her friends and gave me some great opportunities to practice, which I was really grateful for. So I was nervous for the real frenchiness of my situation of being picked up by my landlord. But she turned out to be very sweet. When I told her it was my first time in Nice she drove me down the main stretch of the beach so I could see it. Definitely out of our way. She did most of the talking, and even though I couldn't catch it all, we were able to carry the conversation so I was encouraged by that.
      I haven't had too many responsibilities this first week, which is fine by me. So I've had time to do a few logistical things, like open a french bank account and get myself a library card. Maybe library card isn't at the top of the list of "things to do when you move to a new place" for everyone. But it should be! Best free thing you can get anywhere. Including here! (Well, except perhaps maybe free food.) I was pleased to discover that it didn't cost me a thing and that this library is huge and beautiful. Very modern looking actually. There are plenty of old looking things to look at in this city but the library isn't one of them. But I'm not picky. I've also discovered a very walmart-esk shopping center not far at all from my apartment. And as my dear friend John who has traveled with me knows, I have this weird liking for supermarkets. I guess I just find it incredibly interesting to see how the rest of the world eats and shops and how much they pay for everything and so on and so forth. It's amazing how much time I can spend looking at different kinds of meat or cheese or pasta that I have no intention of actually buying. :) Yes, it's weird.
I've also spent a fair amount of time exploring the city. Since I don't have a real agenda I walk everywhere right now. I mean everywhere. Probably about 6 miles a day. I've been down to the beach a couple times. Lovely. I've acquired a rather hideous raccoon mask sunburn from my sunglasses and probably many more freckles. I climbed up to the top of the hill that sits over the old city where an ancient castle once sat. There are just a few ruins now and they've turned the place into a park. Probably some of the best views of the city and sea from up there.
My french is coming along slowly. I just worked so hard on Spanish last semester that my French was really in the backseat. I usually get to practice a little with my roommates who are both kind and patient. One is a student from another part of France. She is studying international commerce. The other is a young man from Togo, West Africa getting his doctorate. He was blown away when I told him I had been to Togo. Said I was the first person he's met here who can say that. And he has been in Europe for 10 years. Pretty cool. I don't see them too much. Just when we catch each other in the kitchen.
All in all I'm glad to be here. It is very lonely at times. I've never really been completely by myself in this way. But it is an experience I'm grateful for. Or I know I will be. 

All for now.  I've been in the country for a week come tomorrow morning!

Je suis ici!

First day in France! Success!

It is much easier to write about travel, about plane rides and train rides and people you meet and jetlag and le francais, And we'll get to that, than it is to write about my week(s) before arriving here. It was a time full of nostalgia and sad goodbyes to people, places, and things that I love. It certainly wasn't the first time I've said goodbye, but time and distance and lack of connection/understanding between this world and the one that I came from makes these goodbyes all the sharper. But in some ways sweeter, too. Sweeter because I leave with a sense of knowing that what I leave behind is precious. I don't regret where I am. The sight of the Paris streets and shops coupled with dealing with the matters at hand, whatever they be, quickly begins to wash away some of the nostalgia. But before it is washes away further and tucks itself in the back of mind, I wanted to note that it was there. And there is a love and appreciation for home that I will carry with me as I begin these new adventures. And I didn't write about it before because it's hard and it makes me sad.

But the sadness did not stop me from being excited when they called my name to give me a seat on the plane yesterday evening! That plane was booked full and I was hopeful but not overly expectant for getting a seat. But man I wanted to. I had already gotten myself siked and ready to go. Then, for the first time in ages, I heard my name pronounced in a beautiful and spirit raising french accent as they called me up to "receive my ticket" as she said it in French. I imagine they made the announcement in English too but I don't remember it. I was still hanging on the excitement of realizing that they had actually called my name, and that it was being said like that! Heart racing, all my sadness was momentarily dashed as I locked onto the idea that I was really going! Right now! It was happening!
And now, here I am sitting in a 6th floor studio apartment in Paris staying with a dear friend who was kind enough to take me in for a couple days before I head to Nice. I'm quite content. And sleepy. I might travel well in many senses, but jetlag is often a victorious opponent. But after my 6 hour nap, I feel just fine. :)


A bientot!

Virginia and counting

Well  the countdown to Nice is down to 8 days. One week from tomorrow I plan to be flying out. The flight on the 24th looks pretty full. The 25th is a more likely candidate, but we'll see. I'm anxious to get there and start getting things figured out. I have a place to live!!Of course it was a gamble committing to something without ever seeing it or knowing who exactly I would be living with, but hey this whole thing is full of doing without actually knowing what I am doing. My landlord seems nice enough. She offered to pick me up at the airport in Nice if I arrive at a time when she isn't working. I'll have to inform her that I'll be coming by train and my arrival dates are uncertain. But anyway, it was nice of her!
I realize that what I think I am most scared about is the language barrier. I mean yes I obviously speak some french so it isn't a complete barrier, but I don't think it is enough. Not as much as I will need right off the bat. I envisioned this move happening but with the change that everyone around me speaks English. That is less scary in every way. I know I could find my way around and do what I need and talk to the right people, hopefully make some quick and understanding friendships. Yes my fear level in that situation would actually be very low. Which is why I suppose I chose to learn other languages. Can't ever do anything too easy. It is the constant state of confusion and uncertainty that causes me anxiety. So, I think knowing the cause of some of my fear may help me deal with it. Of course, it wouldn't be near as exciting if it was easy and didn't have that aspect of uncertainty, and ok a teensy bit of terror.

I've officially left Danville, Il. I arrived in southern virginia on wednesday. Spending some time with my mom, step-dad, and grandma who just arrived today. The relaxation is nice but it is also killing me. I feel the need to be doing something often even if there simply isn't that much to be done, or if there is I can't seem to see what the next step should be. I want to start packing immediately.That would make me feel better, but because of some silly issues I can't for a few days. The ups and downs of excitement and anxiety are wearing me out. But the general feeling is that I am happy to be doing what I'm doing and I wouldn't trade the opportunity for anything. No matter how crazy I feel.

Danville Shout-outs.

Today was my last day at the hospital. I was under the impression that I hadn't made very many friends here in Danville, which was fine with me because that wasn't really why I was here this summer. I was here to work and spend time with old friends, who I realize now have become so much like family that I've begun to take them for granted, a mistake I often make with family. So new friends weren't really on the agenda. I didn't want to get rooted in to a place where I was fairly certain I would never return. Especially Danville, which really is such an unfortunate town. But after certain moments today and earlier this week, I realize I have made friends. They just aren't the kind I am accustomed to making on my summer ventures. I have always been surrounded by people the same age as me and in roughly the same life situation. Here in Danville, I nearly never encounter anyone in either of those categories. I guess if I ever needed to feel unique, I've had my fix. I haven't met many people that are quite like me.
 Today I said goodbye to several of these unexpected friendships: Rob and Andrea, the transporters I worked with at the hospital, who liked, appreciated, and taught me despite my unfortunate clumsiness and my surprisingly enduring poor sense of direction around the hospital.  Both more than double my age and have been at the hospital for longer than I have been alive. I also said goodbye to my Thursday lunch buddies, three charming older men who also volunteer at the hospital, likely triple me in age, and who I have had the pleasure of shooting the breeze with every Thursday for the last two months, only barely delving into the life experience and wisdom the three of them probably hold. And of course Becky and Dorothy from the volunteer office who took to me for who knows why and helped make my experience there so pleasant. Despite my intentions of aloofness and detachment, I seemed to have found a small handful of attachments.
  Although I haven't said goodbye to this pair yet, my landlords, Dave and Verna have also made quite an impression on me, which I realized earlier this week when they rescued me from an outbreak of a chronic condition that I have. We'll call this unfortunate illness kilocar syndrome. (sounds a little like key-lock-car, or kill-a-car. Both are appropriate.) Yes, I locked my keys in my car. Again. I called them for suggestions and these two stood in the cold (yeah it's chilly here) with me for hours as we relentlessly tried to break into my car. By the end of the ordeal, we had switched tools several times and were working by phone flashlight but at last, success! I can't really express how grateful I am for this. They did not have to spend their evening rescuing me from my own stupidity. But they did. They have been great to us all summer, not just this one heroic event. I've had the fortune of meeting a lot of good people in my life, and these two rank right up there.

So, all of the shout outs to get around to the general feeling and understanding that my time here in Danville is coming to a close, and although I am ready to leave and move on to the next phase, I will not leave completely untouched and unaffected by my time here, and by the people I have met here. Truthfully, there are more people and experiences worthy of mention, but summing up a whole summer is difficult and this post is getting lengthy as it is.
I have four more days of work at Steak n Shake, a packing day, and then I will be on my way to my mom's house in VA. It is hard to believe. Every change is hard to believe when it arrives. Sometime after it is over though, I'm sure I'll realize it has happened.

September

I can't believe it is September. September 1st. By the time this month ends I will be living in another country. Or at least I will be frantically searching for a place to live. I'll be staying somewhere. I hope. This summer has passed so quickly. And slowly for that matter. This summer was unlike any of my more recent ones. I stayed in the country the whole time and did very little traveling otherwise.
I did pick a new location and explore it, but waitressing in Danville, IL somehow lacks the feeling of grandeur and adventure that other summer ventures have awarded me. I don't want to complain though. This has been a time of learning just like any other period of life. And one thing that I have managed to learn is that I am scared!! I am excited beyond belief. I really am. But I am not immune to the feelings of anxiety that perhaps any normal person would feel right now. John is finally getting anxious too. So that makes me feel better. I'm not the only one. :)
The main problem is that I feel like I should be doing a great deal of preparing, but I don't know exactly what to do. I have my visa. I've made copies of everything. I'm looking for a place to live, but there is only so much I can do when I am not there. What to bring? Well...I'm not taking much and it is too soon to pack anyway. Lesson planning? Eh, don't know what to plan for anyway. (Not to mention I detest planning. Doing? Fine. Planning/Preparing/Packing? Gross.)

People here in Danville are often excited to hear about my life, about what I am doing. I get told sometimes that I'm a "brave little thing," while they tell me horror stories ( some legitimate, others completely misguided ) about what happens to people who travel. But I also hear the assurances "you'll be fine," "Now's the time to do it," "You're smart. You'll figure it out," "Once people meet you, and see how small and amicable you are, someone will take you in." That last one was from a fellow that I met in the library this afternoon. Although I do my utmost to keep to myself, it seems I have a knack for attracting interested strangers. It is always funny to me to listen to the way strangers will talk to me about myself. They are so confident in what they perceive you'd think they'd known me for years rather than minutes. Well, at least they believe in me.

So anyway it all drawing closer, feeling both more real and surreal every minute. :)

Bienvenue!

A note to the Reader:
Hello and welcome to my new blog!

This will be my first real experiment in public blogging. I have been an avid journaler for many years now, but I've never really attempted to do this practice in the public eye. The purpose of this blog is mainly to function as a means of communication for anyone interested in the happenings of my life as I travel around, specifically as I make my anticipated move to France in the coming weeks. While I'm sure it will be informative about specific events, it would be silly to assume that random tangents about my thoughts, opinions, and feelings will not sneak rather conspicuously into the fabric of my posts. So, as a writer telling my life story, I'll write what I want, and you as the reader have the liberty to skip any piece that bores or displeases you. :) I won't be offended. I am, however, excited about sharing my life with you and will keep you in mind as I write, hopefully making things as readable and entertaining as possible.

For my non spanish speaking followers, I'll briefly explain the title of this blog. "Caminante" means most literally "walker." Wanderer, goer, traveler or any other movement word you can think of are part of the connotation of the word. It is a word that I like and it seemed appropriate to me. Wait a minute. Spanish? Aren't you going to France? Well yes, yes I am. But as a Spanish major with a French minor, I say any language is free game. :)

All for now. More to come on preparing for France, soon.